Friday, 03 June 2016 16:35

The difference between female and male makeup

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Since being a makeup artist I’ve often found that one of the most popular questions inspiring makeup artists often ask me is how do you do male grooming?? So I thought it was time to let everyone in on my male grooming process; and with the permission from the lovely Vangelis Polydorou semi-finalist from this year’s BBC The Voice I’m happy to show you how.

Almost 9/10 times with male grooming the key is to give him a healthy looking almost invisible makeup look. It’s important that the skin is visible to the eye and not a face full of makeup. Makeup on a man can look artificial if not done correctly.

Follow my steps on how I achieved perfect male grooming on Vangelis:

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Skincare

Skin prepping as with women’s makeup is my KEY element to perfect face makeup. The difference between male and female skin is that males skin contains a lot more oil. As a makeup artist you need to tame and control the oil. You do this by adding a product with water and vitamin B6.

I began with cleansing Vangelis’s gorgeous skin using Nude Skincare; Perfect Cleanse omega cleansing jelly to clean away all impurities. I love that this product is a natural formula and leaves the skin clean and fresh with a natural healthy glow – yes men should have a healthy looking glow too.

Secondly spray on Urban Decay’s B6 Vitamin-Infused Complexion Prep Spray. The B6 vitamin in this product absorbs any unwanted oil found in male’s skin. You can also use this miracle bottle anytime throughout the day to refresh his skin or take away any excess oil that may shine through.

Moisturise; never miss this step. As long as you use the right moisturiser you will never add extra unwanted oil to the skin. I use Clarins Men Super Moisture Gel.

Concealer: unlike a woman we don’t want to brighten under the eyes with a concealer, so instead of using a highlighted liquid based concealer use a flat cream. I used the Mac Pro Conceal palette. Remembering how important it is to keep male’s makeup visible, dot on the cream based concealer where you see the deep undertones underneath the eye. It usually looks like a line from the inner corner of the eye stretching underneath. Pat your product in with your fingers. It’s important to leave the natural skin tone right under the eyelashes, so avoid placing concealer in that area. You can apply the concealer underneath the foundation or over as we’re not brightening the area just neutralising the tones.

Foundation: Don’t apply a thick coverage, this will look false. It’s important that you look at a man’s skin differently to a woman’s; you want to keep the different tones in the skin. The forehead may be darker to the cheeks, or the cheeks darker to the nose. It is very important that you see this and use different tones of foundation in the different areas. Applying one colour all over a man’s face will make him look very artificial, too even. When applying, avoid any stubble or facial hair, try applying with a beauty blender as opposed to a brush to give a shearer coverage. Opt for a tinted moisturiser or BB cream. I used Mac Prep + Prime BB Beauty Balm and Bare Minerals complexion rescue.

Powder: Apply using a big brush. You don’t want to apply a matte flat powder, the aim is to keep the skin healthy and visible. I used Mac blotting powder.

Bronzer: This really depends on the individual. But always remember to use a matte bronzer. Simply sweep over the face to warm up the skin or use as a contour to show off striking cheekbones.

Brows: Depending on the man and the brows, you can get away with a quick comb and set with a clear brow gel. On Vangelis I filled in his brows to make them look slightly darker as he was performing on stage so we wanted them to be visible. I used Benefit Cosmetics Brow Zings, Gimme brow and brow setter.

Eyelashes: This really depends on the individual and what they like. It’s very common that a male doesn’t like his eyelashes coloured, if not, simply brush clear mascara through them. Again as Vangelis was performing on stage we opted for colour. I used Benefit Cosmetics They’re real tinted primer – a brown tinted eyelash primer.

Lips: Simple, a bit of balm. I used Dr.PawPaw Original balm.

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Any questions, feel free to comment and I’ll answer.

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