Since being a makeup artist I’ve often found that one of the most popular questions inspiring makeup artists often ask me is how do you do male grooming?? So I thought it was time to let everyone in on my male grooming process; and with the permission from the lovely Vangelis Polydorou semi-finalist from this year’s BBC The Voice I’m happy to show you how.
Almost 9/10 times with male grooming the key is to give him a healthy looking almost invisible makeup look. It’s important that the skin is visible to the eye and not a face full of makeup. Makeup on a man can look artificial if not done correctly.
Follow my steps on how I achieved perfect male grooming on Vangelis:
Skin prepping as with women’s makeup is my KEY element to perfect face makeup. The difference between male and female skin is that males skin contains a lot more oil. As a makeup artist you need to tame and control the oil. You do this by adding a product with water and vitamin B6.
I began with cleansing Vangelis’s gorgeous skin using Nude Skincare; Perfect Cleanse omega cleansing jelly to clean away all impurities. I love that this product is a natural formula and leaves the skin clean and fresh with a natural healthy glow – yes men should have a healthy looking glow too.
Secondly spray on Urban Decay’s B6 Vitamin-Infused Complexion Prep Spray. The B6 vitamin in this product absorbs any unwanted oil found in male’s skin. You can also use this miracle bottle anytime throughout the day to refresh his skin or take away any excess oil that may shine through.
Moisturise; never miss this step. As long as you use the right moisturiser you will never add extra unwanted oil to the skin. I use Clarins Men Super Moisture Gel.
Concealer: unlike a woman we don’t want to brighten under the eyes with a concealer, so instead of using a highlighted liquid based concealer use a flat cream. I used the Mac Pro Conceal palette. Remembering how important it is to keep male’s makeup visible, dot on the cream based concealer where you see the deep undertones underneath the eye. It usually looks like a line from the inner corner of the eye stretching underneath. Pat your product in with your fingers. It’s important to leave the natural skin tone right under the eyelashes, so avoid placing concealer in that area. You can apply the concealer underneath the foundation or over as we’re not brightening the area just neutralising the tones.
Foundation: Don’t apply a thick coverage, this will look false. It’s important that you look at a man’s skin differently to a woman’s; you want to keep the different tones in the skin. The forehead may be darker to the cheeks, or the cheeks darker to the nose. It is very important that you see this and use different tones of foundation in the different areas. Applying one colour all over a man’s face will make him look very artificial, too even. When applying, avoid any stubble or facial hair, try applying with a beauty blender as opposed to a brush to give a shearer coverage. Opt for a tinted moisturiser or BB cream. I used Mac Prep + Prime BB Beauty Balm and Bare Minerals complexion rescue.
Powder: Apply using a big brush. You don’t want to apply a matte flat powder, the aim is to keep the skin healthy and visible. I used Mac blotting powder.
Bronzer: This really depends on the individual. But always remember to use a matte bronzer. Simply sweep over the face to warm up the skin or use as a contour to show off striking cheekbones.
Brows: Depending on the man and the brows, you can get away with a quick comb and set with a clear brow gel. On Vangelis I filled in his brows to make them look slightly darker as he was performing on stage so we wanted them to be visible. I used Benefit Cosmetics Brow Zings, Gimme brow and brow setter.
Eyelashes: This really depends on the individual and what they like. It’s very common that a male doesn’t like his eyelashes coloured, if not, simply brush clear mascara through them. Again as Vangelis was performing on stage we opted for colour. I used Benefit Cosmetics They’re real tinted primer – a brown tinted eyelash primer.
Lips: Simple, a bit of balm. I used Dr.PawPaw Original balm.
Any questions, feel free to comment and I’ll answer.
The talented designer and our very own Britain’s Top Designer winner Helen Woollams CEO of fashion house ‘Hellavagirl’ dressed previous X Factor Contestant Charley Monroe last weekend for The Essex Entertainment Awards.
For the Essex awards we opted for one her Helen’s signature pieces from her A/W16 collection The Birds. Helen then designed and made a bespoke shoulder piece to attach to the dress.
I decided to create a makeup look that was quite glam but remembering that it also needed to be quirky to match Charley’s style. So after prepping Charley’s skin with my favourite skincare products from Nude, Clarins and Dr.Paw Paw I created the perfect look.
I went for flawless skin with a strong bronze contour and highlight, defined brows, a gold sparkling glitter eye over a smoky green and brown winged base and a black eyeliner flick as long as the winged out eye makeup. This added that quirkiness in the look. I then added lots of thickening mascara and a slightly winged pair of false lashes.
I finished the look with the most beautiful shade of red lipstick and pencil from the new GWEN STEFANI range by Urban Decay.
I did a slight wave in her hair pinned to one side and applied long stiletto nails painted in the same shade of red as her lipstick and added gold leaf to match some of the embellishments in the shoulder piece that Helen had made.
Charley looked incredible and guess what? She WON!
Get Charley’s look:
Nude Skincare: Perfect Cleanse, Youth Oil
Caudalie: Beauty Elixir
Clarins: Daily Energising Moisturiser, Beauty Flash Balm, Instant smooth perfecting touch
Benefit: Pore Professional Primer and Don’t Stray eye primer
Dr. Paw Paw: Original balm
Becca: Shimmering Skin Perfector in shade pearl
Mehron UK: Celebre pro HD foundation
Mac Cosmetics: Mineralize SkinFinish natural, Mineralize Skinfinish soft and gentle, Glitter in gold and Gel eyeliner.
Benefit Cosmetics: Zing Brows, Gimme Brow and Hoola Bronzer
Chanel: Blusher in shade Rose Glacier
Bare Minerals: BareSkin complete coverage concealer
Urban Decay: Naked 1 Palette, Perversion black mascara, Gwen Stefani pencil and lipstick in shade wonderland.
Mink and Co Lashes: In smoke
Skin prepping is a massive must have for me before doing any makeup application.
DR. PAW PAW is a product that I cannot live without in my pro kit and also my handbag. My skin becomes dry, dehydrated and tired with cracked lips very easily due to the lack of sleep and long working days. Luckily for me my long working days see me playing with makeup and beauty products and whilst doing so I found this amazing product.
Having first used it in Marbella borrowed from a fellow makeup artist working alongside me, I used the original balm on the eyelids to create a glossy eye. The normal go to glosses and balms couldn’t cope with the heat and just melted away. Dr Paw Paw saved my makeup look that day.
When arriving back in the UK I soon purchased the original balm and now I use it not only on myself everyday but also on all my models and clients.
I was soon quick to discover that this magic balm was in fact like magic. The ingredients are natural with the main one being Pawpaw, followed by Olive oil and Aloe Vera Oil, blended together they create a miracle soothing and healing balm.
I use the balm on my lips daily and re apply as needed throughout the day. The balm leaves them soft and well moisturised without any stickiness or cracking from the product. Once a week I also coat my face with a film of the original balm in the evening. I let the balm soak into my skin just as you would a moisturiser. The benefits show the following morning when I wake up with soft glowing skin.
As well as using the balm on myself, all my wonderful clients also benefit. Before any makeup application I prep the skin and lips. I always use Dr Paw Paw to prep the lips. This ensures the perfect soft lips required before I go on to apply lip colour. I also use the original balm to set eyebrows. Apply a small dot of product onto a clean mascara wand or eyebrow comb and simply stroke the product through the brows for perfect in place brows all day.
A new technique that I tried last week and absolutely loved was using the pink peach tinted balm as a blusher. I’m a big fan of cream based products over powder and was rather excited to see the fantastic results of the balm. So not only did my client have a pop of beautiful colour on her cheeks but I also knew that her skin was benefiting from the added moisture that Dr Paw Paw balms give.
Photographer & retoucher: Deborah Selwood
Makeup Artist: Victoria Davies
There’s so many ways to use this fantastic multi use balm, here’s just a few;
• Lip Balm
• Hair Smoother
• To soothe skin irritation
• Make-up finisher/primer
• Nappy Cream
• Lip tint
• Eyeshadow tint
• Glossy eye look
Available in a handy 25ml tube for 6.95 in 3 varieties you can’t go wrong in this small investment.
Check them out today www.drpawpaw.com