Saturday, 07 October 2023

LOOLAYY: Dunhuang Culture-Infused S/S24 Collection

Written by Hugo Decanis
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A wealth of traditional Chinese culture and unsurpassable artisanal craft have been LOOLAYY's features for its Spring/Summer 2024 fashion collection presented at the Chinese Cultural Centre in Paris.

For its Spring/Summer collection, Chinese maison LOOLAYY drew its inspiration from a city like no other where cultures blend in the sublime: Dunhuang.


About LOOLAYY Spring/Summer 2024 Collection: The Concept

Time stealthily slips away, and hides within the boundless transformations of things. Drawing inspiration from this concept, LOOLAYY Spring/Summer 2024 collection captures and freezes pattern details and colour, cultural connotations within Dunhuang culture, crafting a flowing sensation in silk fabric in a manner unfettered by tradition. Fabrics are accompanied by rhinestone embellishments to showcase the vivacity of mountains and water light waves, combining the diversity of Dunhuang's cultural colour palette to present a flowing aesthetic in apparel, thus using tangible fashion visual language to recreate the intangible essence of time.

Dunhuang, a sacred name. It is a confluence and collision point for diverse cultures, where ancient China, India, Greece, and Islamic cultures met. Dunhuang is also a palace of art, where murals and sculptures from the 4th to the 11th century provide profoundly moving artistic experiences. Dubbed the art museum of the Eastern world, Dunhuang culture, with its millennia of history, becomes increasingly rich through the polishing of time, gains fresh vitality in the progress of eras, and thus stands as a world-class cultural heritage.

The brand continually draws inspiration from traditional cultural elements and spiritual cores, using fashion language to satisfy the expressive needs of Chinese women in their attire regarding cultural art. Focusing on Dunhuang, and researching mural culture, signifies the brand's reflection and return to cultural roots in new-age consumer patterns, encapsulating a human-centred concrete care.

As stated by Zhang Xiaoqi, CEO and Creative Director of Beijing Xingguang SOMEZEAM International Garments Co. Ltd., under the transmission of the brand’s core value concept of 'new aesthetics, new oriental, new service, new connections': 'Liu Li · LOOLAYY' has always been dedicated to interpreting the modern urban woman's image of "happiness – splendour – confidence – wisdom."

LOOLAYY S/S24: Sartorial Touches

This season, 'Liu Li · LOOLAYY', utilising Dunhuang elements as a medium, explores the opulent beauty of traditional, new Chinese-style ceremonial attire. While containing the splendorous Chinese scholasticism within Chinese wedding fashion style, it mines the beauty of modern women in the transmission of Chinese scholarly tradition. Chinese millennial intangible cultural heritage crafts like Ping embroidery, coiled gold work, and seed embroidery, applied to clothing design and production, not only maintain the intrinsic texture of the attire but also embody artistic and fashionable aesthetic expression.
The continuation and promotion of tradition allow the brand's DNA pattern to settle and then sublimate; 'Liu Li · LOOLAYY' incorporates cultural elements such as Buddha's hand lotus, twining patterns, and Dunhuang Crescent Spring in this product series, enriching the brand's unique design language and adding a layer of profound, ancient Chinese culture.

Starting from the profound foundation of traditional Chinese culture and artisan spirit, 'Liu Li · LOOLAYY' expresses the warmth of cultural heritage. Using high-quality, high-end fabrics as the thread of design, it does not stick to fixed conventional styles but uses a more design-sensible and vivacious brushstroke, employing haute couture thinking to conscientiously unleash fragments of romantic creativity, presenting a dual charge towards high-quality fabric and high-end design. It immerses you in appreciating the beauty of Chinese national costumes, manifesting the goals and humanistic artisan spirit of the 'Chinese Wedding Culture Inheritor and Promoter'.

The designer extracts patterns and colour elements from Dunhuang murals, combining them with the warm and fluid silhouette of the patterns, bringing a new season of Chinese elegant aesthetic through the main colours of gold, red, blue, and green. By combining modern craftsmanship with traditional culture, it is hoped that women wearing "Liu Li · LOOLAYY" attire can fully exhibit the charm of Eastern beauties and display their own boundlessly wonderful strength. This series especially introduces sparkling materials such as crystals, pearls, rhinestones, and laser sequins, which are set against glazed and natural mulberry silk fabrics, presenting a vibrantly colourful visual effect. The exquisitely fine embroidery patterns seem to walk out of the long history, infusing the series with a rich artistic atmosphere.

"Interpreting the wealth and romance of women with the beauty of Dunhuang; demonstrating the brand’s finesse and delicacy with traditional culture." This philosophy not only reflects the brand’s tireless pursuit of fashion and aesthetics but also reveals the brand’s profound understanding and attention towards human emotions and social values.

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